Hello and welcome to this Winworks Tech Series Blog
In this Post, I will show you how to archive your work orders so you can keep your databases running fast and smooth.
So after you run an End of Day process, you may see this screen. That means it is time to archive. No need to panic. This is an easy process.
Step 1- Is to get onto the main computer or the server.
Step 2- Make sure everyone is closed out of Winworks AutoShop.
Step 3- Run a backup. Go to Options then Backup Files. Make sure you have the right drive letter selected and hit ‘Backup Now’ and wait for the backup to complete. It is important that no one interrupts this process by logging into Winworks.
Step 4- Once the backup is done close out of AutoShop and open Winworks Applications.
Step 5- Open the Archive Utility and log in with admin credentials
Step 6- Click ‘Create New Archive File’
Step 7- Now the utility will run and if you look right here you will see how many total work orders need to be archived. The larger the number the longer it will take to archive. So plan your archive accordingly, as you cannot stop the archive once it is started. If you only want to archive 300 Work Orders click no. But if you want to archive all the available work orders click ‘Yes’
Step 8- Click Begin Archive Creation, then wait for the archive to complete.
You can also watch the video on how to do this here-
Winworks Software was founded in 1993 to address the growing needs of service writers and shop owners throughout the country for better management software solutions for their businesses.
The History of the Winworks AutoShop Management System
In the early 1990s, software for automotive repair professionals did little more than write work orders and provide some basic reporting using a DOS interface. Winworks engineers worked closely with local shop owners to re-design the work order writing experience from the ground up. Special care was taken to the flow of work for the service adviser and the growing need for comprehensive management information for owners. The result was the Winworks AutoShop Management System introduced in February 1995 to an overwhelming response. Since that time, we have continued the process of carefully listening to our customers, continuously improving the software to increase the efficiency of service writing while also providing valuable insight into business information. Providing the key information in innovative ways has allowed our customers to increase not only efficiency but profitability. We have also introduced multiple work order formats and a custom format option to allow service advisers to communicate the work done and the pricing in an effective and streamlined way. Our engineers are continually addressing new technologies and improving the Winworks AutoShop system with new parts catalogs, online ordering and text messaging to name a few.
The Philosophy of Winworks
It is our customers that measure the quality of our software and our technical support services. Our loyal following is a testimony of our determination to serve each customer providing them the best experience possible with our software. Our technical support has earned high ratings because we will take the time to remotely connect and solve your issue in the most efficient way possible while keeping our technical support rates among the lowest in the industry.
Hello everyone in this post I will show you how to do database maintenance. Running this utility will help keep your databases lean and able to run at peak performance. It only takes a few minutes to do. Here is how you do it.
Step 1- Make sure you are on the main computer. and that you have done a backup- If you want to learn to do a backup, click the link in the description below.
Step 2- Make sure all users are out of Winworks AutoShop. And Clock on Winworks Applications.
Step 3- Click Database maintenance
Step 4- Now there are 4 main databases in Winworks, 5 if you are a premium user. AutoShop, ShopData, MgmtData, W_Orders. So now click AutoShop, and then click ‘Repair and compact’ Click ‘Ok’ Through the next prompts. Go through all the databases. Once you are done with the 4 or 5 databases. You are done with database maintenance. This should not have to be done all that often. Occasionally, it may be needed.
The penetrating oil is most useful when you have a corroded or rusted bolt or nut that just won’t budge. Pretty much every home garage or workshop needs a can of spray penetrating oil on a shelf. If you don’t have one, you probably should. But if you already have a can, there is also a good chance you’re using it incorrectly. It’s not uncommon for people to use a can of spray penetrating oil as an old-fashioned lubricant, but that’s actually not what it’s intended for. Spraying a bicycle chain or gear linkage with WD-40 or PB Blaster, won’t really offer the lubrication you wanted.
Penetrating Oil Defined
Although manufacturers vary in how they label their products, the spray oil you are looking for will be called “penetrating oil” or “penetrating lubricant”—even though it’s really not a typical lubricating oil, such as what is used to keep machinery gears running smoothly.
Penetrating oil is a petroleum-based oil with an especially fine viscosity—so fine that it can be sprayed as a mist, and so fine that it will find the smallest openings between metal parts and penetrate them. Because penetrants have such low surface tension, they can seep into almost invisible crevices and over time loosen metal connection that appeared to be rusted solid.
True penetrating oil is sold under many different brand names, including WD-40, PB Blaster, Liquid Wrench, and AiroKroil. This can be a little confusing, especially since brands like the WD-40 offer not only a true penetrating oil but also sell spray lithium or silicone lubricants. And some may be marketed as “multi-use” lubricants that supposedly can be used both for penetrating and other general-purpose lubrication. However, the best products for loosening nuts and bolts and other parts will specify themselves on the label as “penetrating” oils.
Penetrating Oil Uses
When faced with a rusty bolt or nut or other parts that seem corroded together, the secret is time. After spraying a healthy dose of penetrant on the fused parts, give them several hours—or even overnight—to sit while the penetrating oil seeps in. Then use your wrenches to try and loosen the parts. If they refuse to budge, hit them with another heavy dose of penetrating oil and again let them sit for several hours and try again.
Sometimes, very stubborn parts can be loosened if you apply heat to them. For example, a stuck nut that is warmed up with a heat gun will expand just enough to allow your wrench to turn it. However, don’t apply direct flame to parts that are still wet with oil. Penetrating oils will evaporate rather quickly, but remember that these are petroleum-based products, so there is the possibility of igniting them.
Other Types of Spray Lubricants
True penetrating oils aren’t the best product for every use and not every spray lubrication product is a penetrating oil.
Here are some of the other spray products available, along with their recommended uses:
Lithium Grease: This is a mixture of lithium hydroxide and petroleum oils. This is a true lubricant, not a penetrating oil, and it works well for lubricating parts where heavy loads or pressure is present, such as the hinges on heavy doors or mechanical cranks.
PTFE: This name stands forpolytetrafluoroethylene, but it really is just a Teflon spray. It is very good for lubricating chains and cables. It is a great material for lubricating parts on a bicycle.
Silicone: This is a spray lubricant containing about 1.5 percent silicone suspended in other materials to allow it to be applied as a spray. Silicone lubricants repel water and work well at extremely high or low temperatures. It is also unusual in that it can be used on rubber, wood, and plastic parts without staining them. It is not intended for applications where there will be heavy pressure.
Dry Lubricants: Although in spray form, dry lubricants come out damp, the solvents used to support the tiny, dry particles, usually graphite, quickly evaporate, leaving surfaces entirely dry. Dry lubricants are ideal for locks, indoor hinges, and drawer slides, since there is no oily mess and dirt doesn’t stick to them. Dry lubricants to not displace water, though, and they wear away fairly quickly and must be regularly reapplied.